I'm delighted to introduce a guest post from award-winning photographer Tony Burt. Aka, Dad!
In July, Dad came over with Ian Sherwood and took me on the most incredible adventure to Scotland in search of the fascinating and prehistoric-looking basking shark. And haggis. What followed was 11 days of thick, Scottish accents, freezing water, hairy coos and amazing basking shark action that I'll never forget. But I'll let Dad tell you the story...
We sat perched on the side of Shane`s nine meter `Cearban` staring in awe at the meter high dorsal fin closing in on the boat. On the skipper's command we slipped as quietly as possible into the 13 degree water and tried to keep as still as possible. Out of the plankton-filled gloom and heading straight towards us came this enormous swimming mouth. Big enough to slide into and not touch the sides. I could now buy the t-shirt.
Our destination, Scotland's Hebrides and the three billion year old Island of Coll. Once the haunt of Vikings for five hundred years, but now 200 hardy Scots, fifty different ways to prepare haggis, lots of seals, a few `hairy coos` plus Shane and Nicky Wasik of `Basking Sharks Scotland`. Ian Sherwood and I had met up with my daughter Rachel in London and headed up to Glasgow. From here we grabbed the three hour train journey through Scottish highlands to the picturesque fishing village of Oban, had a wee look in the Oban whisky distillery then caught the ferry out to Coll.
This was to be my second trip, being here June the previous year. While a bit early in the summer season, fishermen had seen sharks the day before so with high hopes we set out on Shane’s Redbay on a glassy sea. Not a shark fin was spotted but marine life was prolific. A swim with the Grey Seals was a lot of fun then spotting Dolphin, Porpoise, Orca, Minkie whales and amazing bird life. I left with every intention of returning to this rich playground
July 22 was the first of Shane's `shark weeks` coming into the height of the summer migration and pretty much placing Basking Sharks at the top of the must see list. Accommodation was a comfortable rented holiday home in the village of Arinagour. One cafe, one store and one hotel full of friendly Scots, good food (haggis wontons) and good beer! Evenings were spent strolling around the sheltered harbour looking for otters.
Day one with our first shark spotted in Gunner Straight, the channel between Tyree island and Coll. A half hour boat ride from the wharf and a hot spot for sharks. With four meter tides the current can fair rip through here and at mid-tide was just too fast to get in the water. This fish was feeding well with its nose out of the water so one of the lads flew a drone and got some great footage.
It was not til mid-afternoon we had our first swim. And what an encounter! This nine meter gentle giant came within two meters, gently brushing me with a tail on the fly by before circling and coming in for another macro. Then opening that huge mouth and back to working the tide line sifting huge quantities of plankton. Such a prehistoric looking creature. I’m not sure who had the biggest eyes!
Day two we swam with three more sharks. We had some serious photographers on board and everyone was after that `mouth open` shot. Viz was only about 8m with all the food around and often they would clam up before coming into focus. Perhaps too many excited divers thrashing the surface trying to get into position.
Day three, or `Super Tuesday` as I called it, was one from the brochure. The breeze had died down to under five knots and the plankton had risen to the surface. Arriving at Gunner I counted twelve sharks before panic set in and the rush to soap myself into a wetsuit. We were in shark-infested waters! Eight snorkelers on board so four in the water at any one time. Most times you would only get one pass so five to ten minutes wet, then reposition upstream for the B team.
Shane was very careful not to harass any one critter for too long but it was no hardship to find another. At one stage I slipped into the briny to find myself with three sharks lined up! With the weather looking fairly ordinary for the next three days, the call was to head back in at 5pm, grab a haggis burger from the hotel and cruise over to the island of Lunga for a slice of Puffin therapy.
It was now the end of the breeding season and in one more week both Puffins and Pufflings would be heading out into the Atlantic. Rachel was enthralled with these comical looking little birds. The odd one would fly in with beaks stuffed with sand eels and dart down their burrows leaving very little time to snap a photo. As the sun set we had hundreds around us spread along the cliff top.
A five minute walk brings you to another breeding colony. Fulmars and Guillemots with their fluffy chicks by the thousand covering every available piece of real estate. I fully expected a tap on the shoulder from David Attenborough! With the sun sinking and wind dying off the wee midges forced us off Lunga. I have experienced Fiordland sandflies but Scotland midges are a class on their own.
True to form, the weather gods interfered and that was the end of Basking Sharks for us. But Shane loves to show off the other attractions. The remarkable Island or Staffa with its famous Fingals cave, too rough for us to snorkel. A trip to Tobermoray (with its fine single malt) castles dotting the landscape, and a search for the huge White Tail Eagles to cross off the list. This adventure was topped off with a look at one of many wrecks in the area. It was a spectacular dive with gardens of anemones covering most surfaces and the dreaded Fan Worm found in the darker recesses.
It was very sad to leave this rugged marine rich area. We were well looked after by Shane and his team, including the walking encyclopedia that is Luke. I feel the need to return.
In July, Dad came over with Ian Sherwood and took me on the most incredible adventure to Scotland in search of the fascinating and prehistoric-looking basking shark. And haggis. What followed was 11 days of thick, Scottish accents, freezing water, hairy coos and amazing basking shark action that I'll never forget. But I'll let Dad tell you the story...
We sat perched on the side of Shane`s nine meter `Cearban` staring in awe at the meter high dorsal fin closing in on the boat. On the skipper's command we slipped as quietly as possible into the 13 degree water and tried to keep as still as possible. Out of the plankton-filled gloom and heading straight towards us came this enormous swimming mouth. Big enough to slide into and not touch the sides. I could now buy the t-shirt.
Our destination, Scotland's Hebrides and the three billion year old Island of Coll. Once the haunt of Vikings for five hundred years, but now 200 hardy Scots, fifty different ways to prepare haggis, lots of seals, a few `hairy coos` plus Shane and Nicky Wasik of `Basking Sharks Scotland`. Ian Sherwood and I had met up with my daughter Rachel in London and headed up to Glasgow. From here we grabbed the three hour train journey through Scottish highlands to the picturesque fishing village of Oban, had a wee look in the Oban whisky distillery then caught the ferry out to Coll.
This was to be my second trip, being here June the previous year. While a bit early in the summer season, fishermen had seen sharks the day before so with high hopes we set out on Shane’s Redbay on a glassy sea. Not a shark fin was spotted but marine life was prolific. A swim with the Grey Seals was a lot of fun then spotting Dolphin, Porpoise, Orca, Minkie whales and amazing bird life. I left with every intention of returning to this rich playground
July 22 was the first of Shane's `shark weeks` coming into the height of the summer migration and pretty much placing Basking Sharks at the top of the must see list. Accommodation was a comfortable rented holiday home in the village of Arinagour. One cafe, one store and one hotel full of friendly Scots, good food (haggis wontons) and good beer! Evenings were spent strolling around the sheltered harbour looking for otters.
Day one with our first shark spotted in Gunner Straight, the channel between Tyree island and Coll. A half hour boat ride from the wharf and a hot spot for sharks. With four meter tides the current can fair rip through here and at mid-tide was just too fast to get in the water. This fish was feeding well with its nose out of the water so one of the lads flew a drone and got some great footage.
It was not til mid-afternoon we had our first swim. And what an encounter! This nine meter gentle giant came within two meters, gently brushing me with a tail on the fly by before circling and coming in for another macro. Then opening that huge mouth and back to working the tide line sifting huge quantities of plankton. Such a prehistoric looking creature. I’m not sure who had the biggest eyes!
Day two we swam with three more sharks. We had some serious photographers on board and everyone was after that `mouth open` shot. Viz was only about 8m with all the food around and often they would clam up before coming into focus. Perhaps too many excited divers thrashing the surface trying to get into position.
Day three, or `Super Tuesday` as I called it, was one from the brochure. The breeze had died down to under five knots and the plankton had risen to the surface. Arriving at Gunner I counted twelve sharks before panic set in and the rush to soap myself into a wetsuit. We were in shark-infested waters! Eight snorkelers on board so four in the water at any one time. Most times you would only get one pass so five to ten minutes wet, then reposition upstream for the B team.
Shane was very careful not to harass any one critter for too long but it was no hardship to find another. At one stage I slipped into the briny to find myself with three sharks lined up! With the weather looking fairly ordinary for the next three days, the call was to head back in at 5pm, grab a haggis burger from the hotel and cruise over to the island of Lunga for a slice of Puffin therapy.
 |
| Lunga |
It was now the end of the breeding season and in one more week both Puffins and Pufflings would be heading out into the Atlantic. Rachel was enthralled with these comical looking little birds. The odd one would fly in with beaks stuffed with sand eels and dart down their burrows leaving very little time to snap a photo. As the sun set we had hundreds around us spread along the cliff top.
A five minute walk brings you to another breeding colony. Fulmars and Guillemots with their fluffy chicks by the thousand covering every available piece of real estate. I fully expected a tap on the shoulder from David Attenborough! With the sun sinking and wind dying off the wee midges forced us off Lunga. I have experienced Fiordland sandflies but Scotland midges are a class on their own.
True to form, the weather gods interfered and that was the end of Basking Sharks for us. But Shane loves to show off the other attractions. The remarkable Island or Staffa with its famous Fingals cave, too rough for us to snorkel. A trip to Tobermoray (with its fine single malt) castles dotting the landscape, and a search for the huge White Tail Eagles to cross off the list. This adventure was topped off with a look at one of many wrecks in the area. It was a spectacular dive with gardens of anemones covering most surfaces and the dreaded Fan Worm found in the darker recesses.
 |
| Tobermoray |
It was very sad to leave this rugged marine rich area. We were well looked after by Shane and his team, including the walking encyclopedia that is Luke. I feel the need to return.
Maybe next time, a Basking Shark selfie!
Blog post and basking shark photo credit to Tony Burt. Thanks for the awesome trip and the blog post Dad!
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| Hairy coo! |
Blog post and basking shark photo credit to Tony Burt. Thanks for the awesome trip and the blog post Dad!
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